Markets in Trastevere

By Richard Greenbury
26 Dec 2020

One of the best ways to get the feel of a neighborhood is to visit the local markets and Trastevere has some wonderful and fun markets that you should definitely check out!

Night markets (Piazza di Santa Maria)

Trastevere night markets

These lively and vibrant markets run along Via della Lungaretta passing through the main Piazza di Santa Maria. The narrow cobblestone streets also feature a wide array of bars, restaurants providing endless entertainment for an evening out on the town.

Summer night markets (by the river)

Tiber river night markets

Perfectly picturesque...imagine the cool River Tiber running past on a stuffy hot night, and finding a white canopied world under the arches of the bridges on the water's edge. Nice for a break from "Above ground Rome." The food tends to be more eclectic with Mexican, kebab, and American food, catering to both tourists and locals every evening. Imagine the white canopied tents, couches, white painted furniture to match the picket fences with planters hanging over the water's edge filled with pink flowers. Enjoy the atmosphere.

Porta Portese

porta portese markets

This is the most famous and largest flea market in Rome. In fact, it is one of the largest markets in Rome in general, beginning at Via Portuense and continuing all down Via Ippolito Nievo at the back of Trastevere quarter. The renown of Porta Portese has won it a cameo role in movies, such as “Bicycle Thieves” and “Scuiscia”, as well as a couple of mentions is popular songs and poetry. While today it is a very professional set-up, run by the City Council and operating with over one thousand licensed traders, the market had a murky past. It began life as a black market in Campo de’ Fiori and Trastevere after World War II, when Italy along with much of Europe was in crisis, and today you may still come across the odd item which has fallen off the back of the proverbial truck. However, today Porta Portese is a great and lively place to spend a Sunday afternoon browsing the funky little stands and is a favorite of many locals and tourists – Mila Kunis even shopped there!

Every Sunday at 6.30 am vendors at Porta Portese begin setting up their stalls and displaying their wares in anticipation of the hundreds of tourists and locals who will soon be swarming the market looking for anything from an old record toa souvenir for home or simply looking to find a cool trinket among the huge amount of stuff on offer. It is possible to find anything and everything at this unique market, like furniture, linen, clothes, books, CDs, records, old newspapers, jewellery, and toys to name just some of the different kinds of stalls at Porta Portese.

The more nostalgic shopper will also be able to get some pretty good terracotta copies of antiques as well as charming old-fashioned oil lamps. Perhaps the only thing you won’t be able to get is food. (See San Cosimato Food Market below.) There will often be one or two snack food stalls with a very limited range of things on offer, so if you are hungry make sure to eat before you head down. Otherwise, there are plenty of great eateries on any of the streets surrounding the market place for you to grab a late lunch after the market closes at 2 pm.

Getting there

should be simple as any of the trams going to Trastevere should run right by it, particularly Trams 8 and 3. Check your local bus schedule as well for routes that go to Trastevere. Once there enjoy the hustle and bustle and don’t be afraid to haggle – this is expected and all part of the fun.

Just watch out for pick-pockets!

At Porta PorteseMarket you will get a buzzing atmosphere and, hopefully, a great bargain!

Fruit n Vege (Piazza di San Cosimato)

fruit n vege market

In Piazza San Cosimato, directly behind Piazza Santa Maria and the more touristy streets of Trastevere, is one of the most charming food markets in all of Rome. The market is open daily from 8 am to 1 pm and sells deliciously fresh fruit and vegetables from the local farms and vines around Rome. Along with the meat or fish vendors here, a lovely little cheese shop right beside the market opens up at the same time with all kinds of cheeses on offer. There is a playground right beside the market in the piazza, so Mom and Dad can let the kids off to play while they shop for lunch and also be able to keep a close eye on them. Unlike some of the bigger and more tourist-filled food markets in Rome, the sounds and activity of normal daily life at San Cosimato really make you feel like you are at an authentic Italian market. Chat with the friendly vendors and maybe get a recipe idea or two!

San Cosimato Food Market is definitely worth a visit.

Cinema night (Piazza di San Cosimato)

cinema night piazza di san cosimato trastevere

These nights occur only in the summertime and are free. A giant screen is erected in the middle of Piazza di San Cosimato and many chairs to accommodate the crowds that come. There are restaurants on the edge of the square (Corsetti the best spot with great food), a playground for the kids, and some market stands to eat and shop.

A must-do!

Author
Recent Posts

Richard

Richard is the founder of Cribmed. He was born and grew up in New Zealand. In his twenties, he traveled and backpacked extensively before finally settling down in Rome, Italy in 2011.